2012年12月21日星期五
2012年11月13日星期二
mokume tutorial / WHY DID I FAIL
mokume tutorial / WHY DID I FAIL:
ok, so bear with me through this, i may answer my own question from the title of the post, but need confirmation....so i did up a 19 layer stack of mokume, with .020 sheets of copper and nickel silver.
my process in short version was cut,clean,soak in 3/4'' plates in ht oven at 1650 for just over an hour, plates were tightened while under the pressure of my forging press so i know they were tight.
everything looked great.....actually perfect, which was a real supprise. so after touching up the edges on the grinder i heated and quenched from around 900deg f. then tried to roll in my rolling mill, instantly got a slight sepperation, ground it out, but it seemed to be all the way through. so i split and figured id work the two halves seperately. (making rings btw) i tried working at 1200deg f, tried working under the pres, annealed, in the rolling mill, hot,cold, etc it just kept coming apart. one a small piece i did by hand was going ok, but fail when i put in the rolling mill.
my two conclusions
1, i needed either higher temp, or longer soak time or both to complete the full diffusion process
2. i was trying to take to big of a bite at one time with the rolloing mill.
i think both seem to be valid explanations, but woulod be interested in hearing others ideas. (got one week to have two wedding bands done....:o )
ok heres some pics
ready to sand and clean
the plates
tightening the bolts under pressure
the face of these was surface ground before using
homemade charcoal
filling around billet with crushed charcoal i made
i sealed it off with masking tape to prevent it from just falling out before getting into oven.
doubled s.s. foil pouch
in for a soak @1650 f
little over an hour later, out of oven and under press, few light squeezes, then a press and hold till most of the glow was gone
PERFECTION......OR SO I THOUGHT,not totally convinced it wasnt perfect, im leaning towards a combination of technique working the material afterwards, and the not long enough soak.
either way here is the billet complete, and this is the billet that ended up seperating till it was totally trashed.
any thoughts?
my process in short version was cut,clean,soak in 3/4'' plates in ht oven at 1650 for just over an hour, plates were tightened while under the pressure of my forging press so i know they were tight.
everything looked great.....actually perfect, which was a real supprise. so after touching up the edges on the grinder i heated and quenched from around 900deg f. then tried to roll in my rolling mill, instantly got a slight sepperation, ground it out, but it seemed to be all the way through. so i split and figured id work the two halves seperately. (making rings btw) i tried working at 1200deg f, tried working under the pres, annealed, in the rolling mill, hot,cold, etc it just kept coming apart. one a small piece i did by hand was going ok, but fail when i put in the rolling mill.
my two conclusions
1, i needed either higher temp, or longer soak time or both to complete the full diffusion process
2. i was trying to take to big of a bite at one time with the rolloing mill.
i think both seem to be valid explanations, but woulod be interested in hearing others ideas. (got one week to have two wedding bands done....:o )
ok heres some pics
ready to sand and clean
the plates
tightening the bolts under pressure
the face of these was surface ground before using
homemade charcoal
filling around billet with crushed charcoal i made
i sealed it off with masking tape to prevent it from just falling out before getting into oven.
doubled s.s. foil pouch
in for a soak @1650 f
little over an hour later, out of oven and under press, few light squeezes, then a press and hold till most of the glow was gone
PERFECTION......OR SO I THOUGHT,not totally convinced it wasnt perfect, im leaning towards a combination of technique working the material afterwards, and the not long enough soak.
either way here is the billet complete, and this is the billet that ended up seperating till it was totally trashed.
any thoughts?
2012年10月16日星期二
2012年10月3日星期三
Pair of Otter folders with a little flair
Pair of Otter folders with a little flair:
Here are two Otters that have been in the works for a while now. First one is an anodized linerlock with some Chad Nichols Wild One goodness for the blade and clip. Hand hammered copper bolsters, backspacer and thumbstud with patina. Handle scales are spruce cone cast in Alumilite Resin which I sealed with 6 coats of polyurethane after shaping and backed with some very thin G10.
Second is an Otter with an S30V blade just slightly thinner than usual and with a high grind. Blade is standard 2-5/8" and this one is a framelock with Hinderer LBS, C-tek small pattern bolster and burlap handle scales.
Mahalo,
Eric
Second is an Otter with an S30V blade just slightly thinner than usual and with a high grind. Blade is standard 2-5/8" and this one is a framelock with Hinderer LBS, C-tek small pattern bolster and burlap handle scales.
Mahalo,
Eric
2012年8月24日星期五
Pohl Force Kilo One
Pohl Force Kilo One:
The Kilo One Outdoor is the first knife from Pohl Force’s E.O.D. line. E.O.D. stands for Euro Ops Division and denotes that they are made in Europe (LionSteel, Maniago, Italy) to stringent standards. Quality is overseen personally by author, knife designer and CEO, Dietmar Pohl.
The knife has a large modified Santoku blade. It could also be considered a modified Sheep’s-foot. Made from D2, it is very stocky measuring 1.5″ at its widest, 4.567″ in length and .197″ thick (38mm max width x 116mm length x 5mm thick). In order to achieve a practical working edge the blade has a high flat primary bevel, finished with a keen secondary bevel. Hardened to 59 Hrc this proven tool steel will offer lasting performance due to its balance of toughness and edge retention.
The tip slopes downward to meet the point allowing for controlled cuts. This radius is slightly elongated in order to still allow for penetrating cuts, a function that is further augmented by an ample swedge. Following the swedge, there is a thumb-groove along the spine that is complimented by a choil large enough to allow the user to choke up on the blade. Finished with a light stone wash, the surfaces have a perfect cosmetic appearance. For people who are looking for increased corrosion resistance or a more tactical look and feel, the Kilo One (“Survival” model) is also available in a matte black P.V.D. finish (Physical Vapour Deposition, probably TiNi). Pohl Force’s logo, the steel type, date of manufacture and serial number appear on the blade.
The handle is a full tang construction. The outer edges extend past the scales and are rounded for comfort. With its center-line set slightly higher than the blade, the shoulder creates an effective front guard. Opposite, another thumb groove (after the one in the blade spine) with deep jimping provides control and confident operation. The inner-handle edge has two distinct finger cut outs, while the spine has an arcing shape that feels natural in the hand. There is also jimping for the thumb when in reverse grip.
The scales on the knife are thick corrugated black G10. The larger, alternating ridges provide a secure grip that is augmented by a finer surface texture. These are held on by Pohl Force’s heavy duty hardware. Large slots in the fasteners allow for easy adjustment if necessary, with simple tools – including a coin. The pommel on the handle extends past the scales for use as an impact tool or weapon. It also houses the lanyard hole. A thick elastic cord is included.
For carry the knife ships with a flat (pancake) black leather sheath. These are also made in Italy and are custom molded to the blade and scales. The fit is very tight and requires a bit of breaking in, but the resulting retention will be appreciated. The sheaths slender profile allows for a comfortable and reasonably discrete carry, considering the knife’s large size. In addition to the leather sheath, there is a Kydex option that has a belt mount with a tool-free, 90º rotation for cross drawing. Pohl force offers MOLLE compatible mounts and a variety of rigging for concealed or open carry in multiple positions.
All in, The Kilo One is an outstanding knife. Billed as an outdoor/survival blade, it will undoubtedly perform utility tasks with ease, along with more aggressive uses such as chopping. A full tang, easy to adjust hardware, versatile robust blade geometry and outstanding ergonomics sets this apart as a reliable, functional tool. A great sheath along with several other options, should appeal to professionals.
The Kilo One ships in a very nice embroidered, pocketed nylon pouch and comes with a certificate of authenticity, Tuff Cloth and rubber 3D, EOD morale patch.
For more information, or to purchase the Kilo One, visit the Pohl Force shop.
Pros
Great, tough blade
Solid ergonomics
Excellent design, fit and finish
Carry options to fit personal preferences
Cons
May put other knives in your collection to shame
Specs
Total length : 9.75″ (248mm)
Total Weight : 9.17 Oz (260g) and 12.2 Oz (346g) with leather sheath.
Blade
length : 4.567″ (116mm)
thickness : .197″ (5mm)
Steel : D2, 59 Hrc
Stone-wash or PVD coating (Physical Vapor Deposition)
Handle
Full Tang
G10 scales
Lanyard Hole
Sheath
Ships with Leather, Kydex option available.
Made in Germany
The Kilo One Outdoor is the first knife from Pohl Force’s E.O.D. line. E.O.D. stands for Euro Ops Division and denotes that they are made in Europe (LionSteel, Maniago, Italy) to stringent standards. Quality is overseen personally by author, knife designer and CEO, Dietmar Pohl.
The knife has a large modified Santoku blade. It could also be considered a modified Sheep’s-foot. Made from D2, it is very stocky measuring 1.5″ at its widest, 4.567″ in length and .197″ thick (38mm max width x 116mm length x 5mm thick). In order to achieve a practical working edge the blade has a high flat primary bevel, finished with a keen secondary bevel. Hardened to 59 Hrc this proven tool steel will offer lasting performance due to its balance of toughness and edge retention.
The tip slopes downward to meet the point allowing for controlled cuts. This radius is slightly elongated in order to still allow for penetrating cuts, a function that is further augmented by an ample swedge. Following the swedge, there is a thumb-groove along the spine that is complimented by a choil large enough to allow the user to choke up on the blade. Finished with a light stone wash, the surfaces have a perfect cosmetic appearance. For people who are looking for increased corrosion resistance or a more tactical look and feel, the Kilo One (“Survival” model) is also available in a matte black P.V.D. finish (Physical Vapour Deposition, probably TiNi). Pohl Force’s logo, the steel type, date of manufacture and serial number appear on the blade.
The handle is a full tang construction. The outer edges extend past the scales and are rounded for comfort. With its center-line set slightly higher than the blade, the shoulder creates an effective front guard. Opposite, another thumb groove (after the one in the blade spine) with deep jimping provides control and confident operation. The inner-handle edge has two distinct finger cut outs, while the spine has an arcing shape that feels natural in the hand. There is also jimping for the thumb when in reverse grip.
The scales on the knife are thick corrugated black G10. The larger, alternating ridges provide a secure grip that is augmented by a finer surface texture. These are held on by Pohl Force’s heavy duty hardware. Large slots in the fasteners allow for easy adjustment if necessary, with simple tools – including a coin. The pommel on the handle extends past the scales for use as an impact tool or weapon. It also houses the lanyard hole. A thick elastic cord is included.
For carry the knife ships with a flat (pancake) black leather sheath. These are also made in Italy and are custom molded to the blade and scales. The fit is very tight and requires a bit of breaking in, but the resulting retention will be appreciated. The sheaths slender profile allows for a comfortable and reasonably discrete carry, considering the knife’s large size. In addition to the leather sheath, there is a Kydex option that has a belt mount with a tool-free, 90º rotation for cross drawing. Pohl force offers MOLLE compatible mounts and a variety of rigging for concealed or open carry in multiple positions.
All in, The Kilo One is an outstanding knife. Billed as an outdoor/survival blade, it will undoubtedly perform utility tasks with ease, along with more aggressive uses such as chopping. A full tang, easy to adjust hardware, versatile robust blade geometry and outstanding ergonomics sets this apart as a reliable, functional tool. A great sheath along with several other options, should appeal to professionals.
The Kilo One ships in a very nice embroidered, pocketed nylon pouch and comes with a certificate of authenticity, Tuff Cloth and rubber 3D, EOD morale patch.
Pros
Great, tough blade
Solid ergonomics
Excellent design, fit and finish
Carry options to fit personal preferences
Cons
May put other knives in your collection to shame
Specs
Total length : 9.75″ (248mm)
Total Weight : 9.17 Oz (260g) and 12.2 Oz (346g) with leather sheath.
Blade
length : 4.567″ (116mm)
thickness : .197″ (5mm)
Steel : D2, 59 Hrc
Stone-wash or PVD coating (Physical Vapor Deposition)
Handle
Full Tang
G10 scales
Lanyard Hole
Sheath
Ships with Leather, Kydex option available.
Made in Germany
2012年8月6日星期一
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